In the formulation of cosmetics, it is very common to use ingredients of recognized efficiency obtained by chemical synthesis. Many of these ingredients are also found in vegetables, and with the substitution of synthetic components by those of vegetable origin, it is possible to “naturalize” cosmetics, and achieve a higher percentage of ingredients of renewable origin in those formulated, following current trends in the cosmetic sector.
The substitution of synthetic ingredients for vegetables may have another added benefit, since often in natural forms they contain only bioactive and more bioavailable isomers, whereas synthetic ones contain racemic mixtures with inactive isomers in biological tissues.
Natural Vitamin E
Antioxidants are key in today’s cosmetics, and Vitamin E is one of the most widely used. Vitamin E refers to a set of compounds soluble in oils and with similar structure, and the synthetic form tocopheryl acetate is the most used.
The benefits of Vitamin E that have been described are:
– Protection against oxidation by blocking free radicals
– Increase in skin hydration and improvement of the appearance of the skin
– Prevention of the appearance of wrinkles on the skin
– Action related to the anti-inflammatory
– Natural protection against UV rays and toxins
– Favourable contribution to the treatment of psoriasis and acne
The vegetable forms of Vitamin E marketed by Quimidroga are:
D-Alpha Tocopherol (Cosmos, Ecocert, IN=1 according to ISO 16128)
– Natural vitamin E (D-Alpha Tocopherol) has superior efficacy, and differs from synthetic in the following:
– Natural vitamin E is extracted 100% from natural sources, while synthetic vitamin E is obtained by chemical synthesis from petrochemicals.
– D-Alpha Tocopherol (natural) has a unique molecular structure (R-R-R), while DL-Alpha Tocopherol (synthetic) consists of eight different stereoisomers, and only one resembles the natural form of vitamin E. In biological tissues only D-Alpha Tocopherol is 100% bioavailable, while the bioavailability of synthetic vitamin E is only 12.5%.
– Because the Alpha-TTP transfer protein only recognizes D-Alpha Tocopherol, only D-Alpha Tocopherol is active at the tissue and cell level.
– In terms of units of measure, 1 mg of D-Alpha Tocopherol (natural) = 1.49 IU, while 1 mg of DL-alpha tocopherol (synthetic) = 1.10 IU.
Natural Mixed Tocopherol 70% (Cosmos, Ecocert, IN=1 according to ISO 16128)
Natural Mixed Tocopherol is obtained from soybean oil (totally GMO-free) and is presented as a clear yellow-brown liquid. It contains 70 % total Tocopherol, of which 80 % corresponds to the forms Beta, Gamma and Delta-Tocopherol.
Bisabolol of natural origin (Cosmos, Ecocert, IN=1 according to ISO 16128)
Natural Alpha-Bisabolol ((-)-Alpha-Bisabolol) in an unsaturated monocyclic sesquiterpene alcohol, obtained from Candeia (Eremanthus erythropappus). Candeia is a tree of the Atlantic forest of Brazil, from which Candeia oil can be obtained through physical processes and with minimal impact on the environment. From this oil is extracted the (-)-Alpha-Bisabolol with 95% purity.
Synthetic Bisabolol contains a racemic mixture of Alfa-Bisabolol, with a minimum purity of 42.5% (-)-Alpha-Bisabolol. Only the (-)-Alpha-Bisabolol form is active, so the efficiency of natural Bisabolol is twice as the synthetic.
The known properties of Bisabolol are:
– Antimicrobial or bacteriostatic
Other natural proposals of Quimidroga
In Quimidroga we continue to bet on offering natural solutions of maximum effectiveness so that cosmetic formulators can respond to market trends with the best products. Some of our proposals are the following:
- Range of functional ingredients RoquetteⓇ Beauté.
- Range of active ingredients and functional ingredients of BC.
- Propanediol COSMOS.
- Coenzyme Q10.
- Fatty acid esters